Audemars Piguet's "Goldilocks" Royal Oak Chronograph Gets Even Closer to Perfection



After years of waiting, the long-awaited upgrade finally brings the 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph fully into the modern era.

For years, Audemars Piguet enthusiasts with smaller or medium-sized wrists had to compromise on the 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph – at least by purist standards.

While the size was perfectly adequate, one crucial aspect remained outsourced, preventing this luxury sports watch from being a truly perfect product.

Now, amidst a flurry of new watch releases, Audemars Piguet has quietly introduced almost all the features fans have been waiting for, while retaining the slim, comfortable form factor of the existing 38mm chronograph that made it so appealing in the first place.

Anticipation for a 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph with an in-house movement had been building since 2022. At that time, the larger 41mm Royal Oak Chronograph transitioned to the in-house Caliber 4401, a fully integrated flyback chronograph that debuted in the CODE 11.59 series.

This set a precedent, leaving fans of the smaller size eagerly awaiting their turn. However, the challenge was a physical one.

The 4401 movement was too large to fit into the smaller 38mm case of its sibling, so that model continued to use the Frederic Piguet 1185 movement, rebranded as the 2385.

The new Caliber 6401 was born, a movement specifically designed for the 38mm case.

It's not simply a scaled-down version of the existing 4401 chronograph movement architecture, but a completely new creation developed over five years. Key to its integrated architecture is a new patented vertical clutch, which simplifies the structure, reduces complexity, and improves the feel of the pushers. It also features a column wheel and a jumping date function with a midnight jump. This brand-new in-house movement offers two significant advantages for fortunate buyers.

Firstly, the power reserve has been significantly increased, jumping from 40 hours to 55 hours. Secondly, the frequency has also been enhanced, matching the 28,800 vibrations per hour of the 4401 movement found in the 41mm models.

More importantly, the watch thickness remains at 11.1mm. However, some compromises were necessary to maintain the slim profile of the 38mm model, especially for watch enthusiasts who appreciate the complexities of advanced functions, as the new 6401 movement does not possess the flyback function found in its larger 4401 counterpart.

In addition to the new movement, the dial has also undergone some improvements, including a repositioned date window, which keen-eyed fans will notice is now more centrally located between the 4 and 5 o'clock markers.

More noticeable is the rearrangement of the chronograph sub-dials. The minute and hour counters have swapped positions, now located at 9 and 3 o'clock respectively.

Last but not least, the watch now features a sapphire crystal case back, allowing for a clear view of the finely finished movement.

Three Options
Three new models featuring the 6401 movement debut. The stainless steel version features the classic blue Grande Tapisserie dial, which has become an icon of the Royal Oak collection.

The collection also includes two rose gold watches: one with a grey dial and silver sub-dials, and another, more luxurious version, with a sand-colored dial, beige sub-dials, and a diamond-set bezel.

In other words, like all Royal Oak chronographs, these are not your average sports watches. But for seasoned collectors and those who can afford them, this 38mm chronograph is now a perfect choice: perfectly sized for those with smaller to medium wrists; powered by an in-house movement that watch enthusiasts have long dreamed of; and featuring the timeless Royal Oak design that has been the benchmark for luxury sports watches for over fifty years.